One of my favorite moments, was at the top of San Jacinto Mountain National Monument.

You get there with the Palm Springs Aerial Tram Way, about 10 Minutes drive from Palm Springs Center.  In high season, book your ticked in advance. Otherwise you risk to end up on a full parking or the amount of people they let up is already reached.

At the end of the Tram Way is, of course a souvenir shop and a Restaurant. BUT if you walk a bit, you get away from the crowd, into a wonderful beautiful forest, nothing you expected looking up from the Desert.

Of course from here you can start some serious hikes. Check weather forecasts and the local Rancher Website. San Jacinto Peak is over 3000 meters over seas level and its not usual that they get snow over night, while it is still summer in Palm Springs.

https://sanjacjon.com/

10 Minutes walking from the Restaurant there's a Ranger Station where you have to fill out a from with your hiking plans and number and information of all participants. After the hike, you leave the form in a box there, so they know you came back.

Hiking to San Jacinto peak is super worth, just for the views. But also there are hidden lakes, which you reach in a loop of approx 2-3 hours. You need a special permit from the rangers but its a beautiful hidden place. And from there, you enjoy a breathtaking view down on Palm Springs.

My view was interrupted by clouds passing by, but in between, i had full view to Chocolate Mountain and the City. End even the clouds seemed to be dreamy and fairytale like.

There's no place like Palm Springs. A city full of bold villas, in the middle of a desert. I did fall in love to moment i placed my foot in this city.

Also very recommendable for a late breakfast is The Farm. Tucked away from the main street, you need to know this cosy friendly place and a reservation is also recommended. Indulge yourself with a Egg Benedict and a Bloody Mary after a long night out.

Thenwei booked a bicycle tour. Most of the hotels offer bikes for free, but there are several tour operator who do bike tours through Palm Springs. And after all the food and drinks, we felt like it was a good idea, to do some exercise. Although we underestimated the fitness level you need for a one gear bike without breaks :) be prepared!!! I loved the tour, cos it shows you a lot of pretty corners, with entertaining stories, away from the instagram path. And almost flat as it is, it makes so much sense to discover the fabulous architecture of Palm Springs with a bike.

After exhausting ourselves on the bike and laughing, we fortified ourselves in the PS Air Bar. It is decorated like an airplane or a departure lounge and serves exceptionally good cocktails. Fortunately, food too!

Although I did not wanna leave the wild and untouched around Sedona, once even a Hiker needs food and some rest. I ended up near the center, in an old misson, decorated for Dia de los Muertos. This catholic-mexican version of the Day of the Death, got almost more celebrated here than Halloween. Which is a day before. I did not mind at all, cos Dia de los Muertos is such a beautyful stylish and graceful celebration, it make me feel wanna be part of it, even its not my culture at all.

This old mission which is definetly worth a visit, only for architecture - its called Tlaquepaque  - after the Mexican City. It used to be a Mission and its still a wonderful building. Although she of the shops are a bit too esoteric to me. Or maybe just not my Budget ;)

This place took my breath away the moment i turned around the corner just before Red Rock. Even from the highway the view is just overwhelming. I spent a few days here and fell in love with this unique landscape. Here my favorite Hikes:

Not a secret tipp, but an easy to access and yet super beautiful one. I parked near the Sedona Airport Overlook which gets really busy at sunsets. Walking down to Airport Mesa Viewpoint took me about 10 minutes, where you reach the first of the Vortex (power spots) There i turned towards south and followed the Airport round Trail, which brought me back to my car. Its more or less flat and you keep overlooking the beautiful Valley. I met some deer, snakes and bunnies, but the did not wanna model for a picture.

This place is a secret tipp. You drive about 25 Minutes to get to the Trailhead where you find parking too. You walk up to the table mountain from where you have a 360° view over the landscape and rock formation in this area. I went up 1 hour before sunset, walked all over the plateau and enjoyed the view and the sunset with few other hikers. Going down i was happy to have my headlight with me, its quite steep and not secured.

Depending on the season: bring mosquito repellent :)

There are many very "instagramable" places like the Devils Bridge, Red Rock Trecks, Chimney Rock Pass etc. but many of them are easy accessible and therefore very crowded. Unless you'll get there very early, which makes sense at Devils Bridge f.ex.

Other famous places lake Crescent Moon Picnic are very crowded at sunset and sunrise. And don't forget to check opening hours of the parking lots, they depend on seasons. Anyway, there are plenty of breathtaking hikes and views. I felt it was worth going for the less known than the ones everyone is heading to.

First advice of all: if you don't have one yet -get a car. Like any city in this country, distances are big and you walk for days to come from one spot to the next. And, cubic transport isn't that accessible than on other continents...

Anyway, if your location is near French Quarter or within, there's still much to explore by walking.

Explore those streets in the morning, when tourists still are sleeping, stroll through the alleys along the old spanish houses, along the river Missisipi and its beautiful nostalgic Steamboats.

Bourbon Street is of course the most famous Street of this City, but it has become a bit whacky. So if you are not after Voodoo Dolls from China, i recommend you Royal Street or Chratress Street where you find vintage Furniture, Clothes and other Trouvailles.

" The Preservation Hall".

The place is nota Hall at all, rather a Barn. You need to buy your tickets in advance for a slot, but its worth it. The room its small, sticky and hot but its also a very distinguished location where people with a true passion and sincerity do what the love.

I start this article with my one and only namely Peixes https://www.peixes.fr

There two of them and you can't make reservations in either. So go on lunchtime or queue up cos its worth a little wait.

The food is somewhere in between modern peruvian and mediterranean but without loosing credibility.  Simple yet endless tasty dishes, like the chickpea salad, with aubergine and a heavenly foam of hummus which I never tasted before. Creamy and light at the same time. Served with and unique sourdough bread with a good crust and soft inside.

The Ceviches are fresh and well combined with figs, aubergine caviar, fresh veggies and of course the characteristic lime marinade which is never too sour but enough to make you wanna eat more.

Streetfoods

What's next on my list? SOCCA! This flat slightly oily savory cake is sold as street food and is a mixture from olive oil, chickpeas, salt and water. Is baked at wooden ovens and it gives it not only a heavenly crust but also a smokey taste. Sometimes they are seasoned with Pepper, Piment or Herbs.

Like many street foods, this recipe goes back to roman times and was invented from the poor people, who cooked with ingredients they had - wich was not much. Nevertheless its also the proof that often, less is more ;)

Nice has, unlike most other regions or cities in France, not much patisserie or sweet specialities to offer. Typical though is "Tarte de Blettes", which might appear a bit unusual at first sight. "Blettes" is swiss chard, a vegetable more known for salty dishes.

Give this unusual sweet Tarte a try, you'll be swept away by the buttery bottom, the sweet yet slight bitter taste of the chards, finalized by the crunchy taste of pine nuts at the end. Sometimes, the Tarte is covered with dough again which makes it richer and sweeter.

Last delight I gonna introduce to you is called Truchia or Trouchia, its savory and some kind of Omelette or Frittata.

Made with Eggs, thinly sliced Chard again of course, parcel, garlic and onions, its sold in different versions, with olives, grated cheese, some veggies or even potatos, even closer to the spanish tortilla.

Although Nice feels sometimes overrun with tourists in summer, the city is a place where people live all year round. This is evident in the cultural offers, as well as the markets, stores and restaurants.

Candlelight Concerts at Observatoire de la Côte d'Azur (Nice)

The Observatory offers a variety of Concerts in this special venue. Already the view down on the city is worth the trip up there.

Find more about the program here

https://feverup.com/m/139048

Centre Universitaire Mediterranéen

https://www.cum-nice.org

This place has not only one of the most beautiful buildings of a University I have ever seen they also have a big variety of Lectures, of course related to the region and wich are free for every one. Give it a try and learn something new :)

Where the Artists live - Saint-Paul-de-Vence

https://www.saint-pauldevence.com

Fed up with the city life? Take a trip to Saint-Paul-deVence, 15 Minute drive from Centre Nice. This pittoreske little medieval village is just stunning to see, even if you don't have the change to go shopping in one of the many Galleries.

Hiking to the Parc Forestier du Mont Boron

The Park offers about 11 km hiking trails, Picnic places and Pétanque runway. From the Fort Mont Alban you have a spectacular view over the harbor and of the weather and Villefranche sur Mer. Start your hike at Nice old town to the Fort, it takes about 45 Minutes.

This pretty town located by the sea, is quite touristic and small. Nevertheless i think its worth a visit and there's some Magic in the Air, i think.

The legend says, that Mary, Mother of Jesus, arrived at this beach with two other Marys and her Servant Sarah. Sarah died here and her remains lie in a crypt in the church on the main square. She is revered as a saint by the Sinti and Roma from all over Europe and her Bones and Statue is carried to the sea once a year by the community.

Visit the tomb of Sarah, enjoy the Beach, which is epic, like everywhere here. Have some Moules et frites and stroll through the almost Andalusian like little Alleys.

Why the town is called after all the Marys and not famous Sarah - good question, no answer here. They got the name, Sarah all the fame though.

Where to stay

Le mas de la Fouque

Wonderful luxury place, close to the seaside and with a wonderful garden and pool.

This city is surrounded by impressive defiant medieval walls, protected or confined - you don't really know. But you can see it from afar and it doesn't seem friendly. Once inside the city walls, things look very different. Pretty, well-kept alleys and streets invite you to stroll, have an aperitif or go shopping. From the Walls you have an epic view over the marshland and the salines which color the water in an unreal pink. Usually you see flamingos passing by or resting in those pink lakes.

Aigues Mortes means " Dead water" btw. And that's cos of the salt. Clever eh?

Where to stay

Gite les suites de 17

located in the Heart of Aigues Mortes, simple and stylish. I'm still in Love!

Camargue is a magic place, a place where wild horses run still (almost) free, where you see flamingos wading through pink waters and the land reaches to the skies. There's a lot to discover and you can do it easily by bike. Find out my tips for this region, I'll start with Salines de Giraud. Have fun!

Less known than other places in Camargue, this sleepy nest is one of my favorites and a good place to start your discovery tour. In the center you find different shops which rent out bicylces for a day or two. i was unlucky and had a massive head wind. Hated it. But apart from that its very peaceful.

The three ponds and the Salines are easy to discover like this, bring your pic-nic and your towel to stop at the beach.

The Beach is wild and untouched, you can walk for hours and it seems endless (its not, though). There are little food stalls and bars from time to time, but it makes sense to bring a bottle of water or two. and a bottle of Rosé if your heading for sunsets.

Where to stay

Un Nid en Camargues

Beautiful restored on maintained Pension with 4 rooms, a shady garden, where you'll get an excellent breakfast. The rooms with the high ceiling and big windows are cosy and stylish at the same time. 5 Min walk from the center and restaurants.

The largest Salines in the region are located next to Aigues Mortes and can be visited on a guided tour. i felt like a kid while beeing transporter in this little "Disneyland" Train around the area. But the advantage is, you don't have to walk :)

As the salt is destined for the table, the highest level of hygiene is observed. Unlike humans, the pretty flamingos are allowed to wade and fish in the waters and look quite photogenic while doing so. By the way, the birds get their pink colour from the tiny shrimps they fish out of the ponds.

What to do!

1 Marché des Halles As usual, the place where you find me and i feel the most at home, COS there's FOOOD!

Cvered market with great (often Italian) food, bread, cheese, seasonal vegetables and fruit. Stop at one of the surrounding cafes and have a "Barbara Juan". The fried salty pastry with leeks, spinach or similar vegetables is typical of Menton and very very tasty.

2 Musée Jean Cocteau The Museum by the Sea shows the artist's works from 1910 to 1950 in all their diversity. I never made it there, it was flooded or in renovation and i felt rejected after a while. Jean Cocteau does not like me. But people keep saying its worth a go. If its open, once in a decade.

3 Walk through the narrow pretty streets to the higher cemetery, "Old Chateau". Yeah its a bit creepy but in other cities, people pay for such an experience. And apart from that, you have a great view of the bay, the mountains and the coast, as well as a beautiful old cemetery. Afterwards, walk through the maze of alleys back to the Promenade de Soleil, follow it eastwards and you can almost reach Italy.

4 Last but not least, Menton is also known for one of the best restaurants in the world, the Mirazur. Make sure to book in advance.

5 Menton, like the whole Cote, was turned into a tourist zone by the English. What remains are some of the most beautiful beaches in the region, some of which are open to the public. Val-Rahmeh-Menton Botanical Garden, Jardin Maria Serena, Les Jardine Bioves are some of them.

6 Ventimiglia is the town just after the border in Italy and is also worth a visit. Not because of its genuine border town charm, but because of its great coffee and especially the weekly market. Here the connoisseur's eye (and stomach) revels. and of course your weight scale.

1 La Café de la Fontaine, La Turbie

www.hostellerie-jerome.com

Close to Hostellerie Jér'ome, a restaurant with two Michelin stars, this little legendary Gem is one of my favorites.

Regular customers and tourists mingle in this location with a relaxed but lively atmosphere.

Food served here offers a sunny bistro-style generous variety of fresh seasonal and of course, classics. Menus changes daily, depending what the chef finds in the morning on the markets.

2 Eden Plage Mala, Cap d'Ail

https://edenplagemala.com

Not exactly a typical Bistro, but a good place to know. Stay for Lunch a Rosé soaked afternoon (they have sunbeads too), Dinner or all together.

Hidden in the beautiful bay Plage de la Mala, its accessible by boat (anchor) or car. But best by Taxi, cos parking spaces are rare, even in low season.

They serve good decent fresh, modern interpreted local food, Ceviche, Sushi, Seafood, Socks or even a charcuterie platter.

3 Le Café de Turin, Nice

https://www.cafedeturin.fr

This a bit old fashioned but beautiful and very dignified place serves all kind of Seafood.

You get a variety of different delicious Oysters, Crabs, Lobsters and all their yummy relatives, cooked or raw. All you Seafoodie Heart is wishing for.

4 La table de Kamiya, Cagne-sur-mer

https://www.la-table-de-kamiya.fr

Wonderful and unpretentiously but sophisticated Fusion Cuisine (Janapese-French)

Loved not only the food but also the atmosphere inside the restaurant, calm, friendly, tidy place.

1 Peixes

www.peixes.fr

There are two of them underneath, a smaller place, more like a bar and the bigger is a classic restaurant. Both busy. Make a reservation, otherwise you have to queue up and that would be a shame. Little portions to share, fusion/southamerican/mediteranean approach, i'd say with an Asian touch. Super fresh and tasty.

2 Marché de la Libération

Although the marchers aux fleurs might be more scenic at first sight, give this market a try. Here's where Nice is authentic, you find fruits and veggies from the region, huge piles of Olives and Cheese, fresh flowers and fish and seafood from the Mediterranean. Its authentic, loud, on some corners a bit smelly but a feast for your eyes and your table, if you feel like shopping. Otherwise have a café au lait somewhere and enjoy the atmosphere.

3 Les Bains du Castel

https://www.castelplage.com/les-bains-du-castel/

You look at Nice plage and you have the Sea just next to you. And its almost like being on a Boat. Most of what they serve is Fish or Seafood and its not cheap, but they interpret many culinary classics in a modern way without too much fuss. I loved it, maybe also cos the atmosphere is relaxed and light.

4 Chez Davia

https://www.chezdavia.com

Classic, a bit old style bistro with authentic seasonal Food from the region.

5 La Petite Maison

no Webside

11 Rue Saint-François de Paule, Nice

Seasonal Food from Cote Azur. Fish and Seafood but also all time classics like stuffed Zucchini Flowers, Aioli and Anchovies.  

Unique stone formations to sunbath on, swim around or just watching the scenery. Crystal clear water and a protected bay makes this Beach an all time favorite. although its even in low season pretty busy. So come early to get one of the sun chairs or big rocks to enjoy the peaceful place.

2 Mikri Santa Maria

Located next to Santa Maria, its smaller and more private than Santa Maria Beach. There still some little Taverns located around this beautiful bay, although you don't have the same opportunities like water sport schools. There's an option for sunbeads and umbrellas too and some of the Bars started playing music and organize parties for the party crowd.

3 Faragas

Wide open Bay in the south of the island, white sands, some rocks and blue water. The beach is protected from the north wind which can get heavy, especially in summer. Some areas offer sunbeds and umbrellas, other are free and you settle down with your own gear.  

The small or minor Cyclades are still a secret tip and this for many reasons. The major one might be that there hard to access. Which is good for all the folks who take the time to get there.

How to get there:

Some Cycladic Island, like Paros, Naxos, Santorini and Milos do have an Airport. Fly there, take the Ferry to the Island of your Dreams.

During Summer (High Season) Ferries are commuting very frequently, before and after, like June or September and the rest of the year, you better inform yourself before you get there.

The easiest way to do so is to check online at the Ferry companies sides like seajets.com or f.ex. ferries.gr. Although you pay maybe an extra fee, you have less hassle once you were in Greece.

Where to stay

During High Season its very recommended to book your place to stay in advance. Traveling off season, hit the Island and find your place! There so many nice, little beautiful hostels, b&bs small Hotels to discover.

Koufonisia

There two Koufonisia, a populated bigger one Pano Koufonisia, and an almost empty, smaller one, Kato Koufonisi. The empty one is highly recommended if you sail by with your boat. Cristal clear deep blue or turquoise waters, shelters bays in the south and one or the other seaturtle crawling by is not unusual here. As the wind is coming quite often from north, you find several protected bays to anchor in the south of this Paradise.

F. ex. Detis Bay, Pezoulia Beach

The bigger one, is fairly scenic, with beautiful blue waters, some nudist Beaches and some pretty little Beach Restaurants like Pori Café at Pori Bay. Koufonisia Town is super pretty, the old Windmills overlooking the port is almost too Cliché. (although its real and true).

Restaurants

Neo Remezzo, Koufonisia

no webside

Fish! Octopus! Seafood!

Fos Fanari, Koufonisia

no webside

Modern Greek Food. Super yum.

Where to stay

Utopia Hotel

My favorite! Simple yet stylish, Yoga and meditation available, but if you just seek sour privacy, you'll find it here too.

Donoussa

This most eastern Island of the small Cyclades is wonderful sleepy, although it has some really good places to eat and also a wonderful bakery (called Panama) just close to the port and ferry pier at the main  village.

Climb the little hill next to the village, you have a wonderful view to Naxos. And if your lucky, one of the restaurants up there, are open. They all serve decent traditional food.

F. ex. Restaurant Simadoura.

Ios

Ios is one of the bigger and more lively Islands. But even you find a club and some parties its far from what you experience on the bigger and more accessible Island. Whatever you heard about Ios, it is even more beautiful.

Iraklia

The biggest Island of the small Cyclades offers a lot tho whom is seeking eace and nature. To me the most authentic Island in this region, for some maybe to sleepy. But the variety of hiking possibilities and lonely yet stunning beaches made me fall in Love with this jewel.

Schinoussa

Tiny island with 3 villages. You can reach almost every beach within 45 minutes walk and you might see the same friendly man on his donkey on every walk you do on that Island. Some really rich people have their holiday houses here, still its a very authentic place.

Dont miss the famous Fava -  the recipes shall be from this Island originally, although you get it everywhere around Cyclades nowadays. But they claim to have the best yellow-split pea, which Fava is made of.

Restaurant

Kira Pothiti, Chora Schinoussa

no webside

Best Food in town, so fresh and with a twist.

Deli Restaurant Café and Bar, Chora Schinoussa

good for a Coffee, Frappe or Iced Coffee in the morning. Wonderful view for a Sundowner.

Amorgos, my Love, how shall i describe you?

Lying north of Santorini Island, it is much bigger and rougher then the tiny little beautiful and poetic Islands of the minor Cyclades. Actually its more a row of mountains than an Island. And as steep they are, as steep they fall in to the southern aegean Sea.

Arriving by sailboat or ferry, you first arrive in Katapola which is, on the left side, a scenic pretty little tourist place. On the right side, its is typical Greek Island Port, with Shops and honking Ferries coming and going.

Best place for a Sundowner is "Moon Bar": good view on the bay and its traffic, a a beautiful old tree to find shadow and some good Drinks.

By the way, Amorgos became famous through the French Film "le grand bleu" and there's a Bar called after the Film. They show the Movie every Night during High Season, so if you haven't seen it yet, give it a try. The Film is the reason so many french people settled down here, and also there seen more French Tourists than elsewhere around.

Restaurant

Transistoraki, Chora Armorgos

www.trazistoraki-amorgos.gr

Decent Meze plates and Ouzo. All you need...

Almyriki, Katapola

no webside

Fresh Fish and Seafood. No coffee served, "cause we are a fish restaurant" ;)

Where to stay

The big blue Guesthouse, Lagada

Beautiful small Guesthouse in traditional style with stunning views.

Vorina Ktismata, Chora

Small jewel at the Chora of Amorgos. Most stunning sunsets granted!

1 Sarakiniko Beach

You can't deny it, Sarakiniko is magic. Even in high Season and during days, its crowded, it is still magic. Visit at sunrise or sunset, vibes are totally different yet still breathtaking.

2 Agia Kiriakos or Kiriaki

Located south of the island this Beach is most underrated to me. White Pebbles and cristal clear water make this quiet Beach unique to me. There's a little tavern at the western end of the beach, but apart from that, bring your own gear, cos ist not touristic at all.

3 Tsigaros

This Beach became, even it is hard to reach, quite famous and busy. The access is not easy, bring good shoes, you have to climb! But once you're down, you know it was worth. but go, before the crowd comes, so you can leave again.

4 Firopotamos

Super pitoresque little bay which is surrounded by some old style fishermen houses and shelters. Can get really busy, so be there early or late.

5 Firiplaka

This small Beach ducked under huge white rocks has some tourist facilities. If the Beach itself becomes too busy, find shelter in one of the little bays around.

1 Mira Restaurant  - Paroikia

www.mira.gr

Great food, great ambiente. Make a reservation!

2 Yemeni Wine Restaurant  -  Naousa

https://yemeni.squarespace.com

Located in the middle of Naousa Labyrinth. Great food and ambiente :) surprise. Make a reservation.

3 Sigi Ikthios

https://www.paros-restaurants.gr

You would suggest some tourist trap in this location, but seafood is served here at its best! Enjoy. If you don't have a reservation, they usually make a table up for you. Just be carful you dont end up in the old harbor. You would not be the first one :)

4 Fotis All Day Bar -Naousa

No Webside

Good food, all day, good wine, excellent hangover breakfast and lots of yummy smoothies and drinks, which make you think its healthy, but its probably not. Apart from the really tasty menu, the location directly at the beach and water front of Naousa old town, is unbearable. Although you might get a splash from the sea on a windy day.

5 Chrisoula Meze Tavern - Lefkes

No Webside

Traditional Meze platters, served with a view. Located at the Road leaving this mountain village, it offers a beautiful view over the little village, old windmills, hills and, of course the Aegean Sea. Best for a late Lunch.

No matter where i go by myslef, on a tiny swiss mountain, or in lonely desert far away, people, get always astonished if not even shocked, to learn i do these trips often by myself.

Why is that so? On one hand, doing things by one selves, society still thinks is a stigma, meaning if you do so, you must have no friends and being lonely.

I think people who are able to travel solo, they know themselves much better than the others. But no judgements from my side, i actually only wanted to deliver some tipps for solo traveling woman.

Do's

- choose a country you feel safe

- inform yourself about weather and altern condiditions if you go hiking

- inform somebody where you are and what you planing to do (f.ex at Visitor Center or SAC Hut)

- inform yourself about local customs and dress comfortable but appropriate

- depending on the country and season, book accommodation in advance

- book group tour once in a while, its fun and easier to meet other people

- keep your smartphone charged

- keep control in any situation, no matter if partying, sharing a taxi or whatever you're up to

- indulge yourself :) treat yourself with a massage, a superb dinner, or what you feel like

- do your research in advance, be informed about the place you'll be visiting

Don'ts

- loosing control. Don't get too drunk, take care of your Drink

- follow people who promise you to show you something ;)

- walk around alone in dark alleys and lonely areas

- beeing too friendly! In some cultures, woman don't smile at men, while in Europe this is polite. It can be taken very wrong if one does so in certain countries.

- don't walk home alone at night, book a taxi or ask your hotel for a shuttle

- taking drugs: apart that its illegal and persecuted in most countries, you are more vulnerable than sober. And yet, you might know the stuff your personal Dealer offers at home, but not on a foreign place with strangers. Just don't.

Do's

• book a Food Tour "With locals"
• try food at Djemaa el Fna
• get up early to experience daily life in the alleys of this magical labyrinth
• go to a Hamam
• have a late afternoon cuppa on the roof Top of one of the Restaurants around Djemaa el Fna

Donts

• don't follow locals if they want to show you the way, often they bring you to a shop and then its hard to get away without buying things you never wanted to buy
• don't take pictures of local people without asking their permission
• don't wear bikinis, hot-pants etc. Marrakech is a open modern city, where many different believes and customs coexist. And therefore its appreciated if visitors dress appropriately.

Marrakech - already the name conjures associations of 1001 nights, fairytales and magic. And so i came here for my very first time with a lot of expectations. I heard so very contrary experiences and truths, i had to find out myself.

I stayed in a beautiful little Riad called BE Marrakech, in the labyrinth of the old town, or Medina. Within 5 Minutes walk i was in the middle of this puzzling Hive, overwhelmed by scents, views, noise and impressions.

Unsere Reise beginnt in Kalabrien. Fast kitschig mutet das Meer in Tropea an, kein Wölkchen trübt den tiefblauen Himmel. Das Meer liegt ruhig, fast wie ein See und gibt uns einen Vorgeschmack auf die nächsten Tage.

Den Segeltörn hier zu starten hat mehrere Gründe, vor allem praktische: so erreichen wir die nächst gelegene der aeolischen Inseln, Stromboli, in wenigen Segelstunden. Mit etwas Glück sehen wir ihn sogar schon am Horizont, am Vorabend, in der Tropea Cocktail Bar mit atemberaubender Sicht auf das tyrrhenische Meer. Ein weiterer Vorteil ist aber, wir können hier Einkaufen und begegnen einer etwas anderen Küche als der aeolischen, die den Umständen entsprechend, sehr fischreich ist.

Die Kalabrische Küche jedoch ist von den Bauern in den rauen Bergen genauso geprägt wie vom Meer. Käse ist in Süditalien vor allem aus Schaf und Ziegenmilch erhältlich, der ansonsten unanständig oft verbreitet Parmesan hat hier keine Chance. Sogar der Ricotta mit dem die vielen köstlichen Süssigkeiten gefüllt sind, wird aus Schafsmilch hergestellt. Fleisch wird mehrheitlich in Form von Schweinefleisch angeboten, oft als Wurst, Salsicce natürlich, zum Beispiel mit Fenchel gewürzt oder in Form von Ndujia, wie die lokale Berühmtheit heisst. Die wurde früher oft auch mit Innereien gefüllt und mit dem ebenso typischen Peperoncino gewürzt. Vielleicht auch, ursprünglich, um den einen oder anderen aufdringlichen Geschmack zu übertönen. Heute bekommt man sie vorwiegend gefällig pikant, selten wirklich scharf, von der Konsistenz eher weich, manchmal streichfähig. Gerne wird auch die Pasta damit gewürzt, wobei wir bei der nächsten Spezialität wären, den Filej. Diese leicht gedrehten Hartweizen Teigwaren werden manchmal auch Fileja genannt. Als Pasta Norma, mit aromatischen, auf der Zunge schmelzenden gerösteten Auberginenstücken serviert, ist sie ein weiterer Klassiker der Region.

Unsere Segel Yacht, eine Jeanneau, ist gefüllt mit lokalen Leckereien. Auch dabei sind die riesigen roten Zwiebeln die in keinem Ladenlokal fehlen, unübersehbar üppig und dekorativ. Diese Zwiebeln, ein weiteres Wahrzeichen dieser sonnenverwöhnten Stadt, heisst es, sind so süss die kann man roh wie ein Apfel essen. Auch wenn wir viele Zwiebeln essen diese Woche, das hat sich dann doch keiner unserer Crew getraut.



Nach einer windstillen und ereignislosen Überfahrt erreichen wir am ersten Tag gegen Abend Stromboli. Zuverlässig spuckt der Vulkan alle paar Minuten eine dunkle Aschenwolke gegen den klaren Himmel. Das Feuerwerk und die Lava sehen wir von unserem Ankerplatz aus nicht. Wir springen zuerst ins kristallklare Wasser, man sieht bis zum Grund, der nicht wie in Tropea türkisblau ist, sondern dank den Lavakieseln, ungewohnt schwarz. Als es dunkelt, lösen wir unsere Yacht wieder von der Boje und tuckern Richtung Westen, in den Sonnenuntergang. Wir sind nicht alleine auf dieser Fahrt, mehrere Nachbarsyachten, Ausflugsschiffe und auch Fischerboote pilgern mit uns zur anderen Seite der Insel. Hier ist der Vulkan Krater gut sichtbar, schweigend sitzen wir an Deck. Den Nacken immer starrer, fixieren wir den Berg, der scheinbar alle paar Minuten explodiert. Lava fliesst nicht viel, ab und zu hört man einen Gesteinsbrocken den steilen Abhang hinunter poltern. Dann ist wieder Ruhe, vor der nächsten wunderschönen Eruption. Unterdessen geht hinter uns, ziemlich spektakulär aber weitgehend unbemerkt die Sonne unter. Naja, das Spektakel werden wir wiedermal sehen, der Vulkan, der ist einmalig.

Am nächsten Tag besteigen wir den Berg gegen Abend. Trotz fortgeschrittener Stunde sind wir alle innert kurzer Zeit schweissgebadet. Der Weg schlängelt sich ca. 3 Stunden steil den Hang hinauf. Der Boden ist sandig, es fühlt sich an als würde ich einen sehr steilen Sandstrand hinauf wanderen. Wir sind nicht allein, wie eine Schlange windet sich der Strom der Schaulustigen den Berg hoch. Aber da alle mit einem Guide zum Krater müssen, ist dies eine recht gut organisierte Völkerwanderung und schlussendlich haben alle ein Plätzchen in der ersten Reihe.

Den Vulkan aus nächster Nähe zu sehen geht mir unter die Haut. Manchmal grollt der Berg vor sich hin, die Flamme im Krater flackert auf, bevor sie als glühend rote Fontäne in die Luft schiesst. Dann kommt der Ausbruch wieder, explosionsartig, unerwartet, laut und heftig. Dabei werden wir von der Druckwelle nach Hinten gedrückt. Wir schauen zu, relativ schweigend, befangen von dieser Urgewalt. Nachher trotten wir wie die Ameisen, die wir sind, den Berg, den steilen Sandstrand hinunter. Vom schwarzem Vulkanstaub paniert, gönnen wir uns kurz vor zwölf Uhr nachts ein Gelati in einem der geschäftstüchtigen und deshalb noch geöffneten Bars. Es schmeckt herrlich. Zurück auf unserem Schiff, erlösen wir uns von der klebrigen Panade mit einem Mitternachtsbad.

Am nächsten Morgen werden wir vom Geräusch des Regens geweckt, der Stromboli hüllt sich in eine Wolkendecke, wir machen uns auf in den Süden, nach Salina. Der Tag verläuft ruhig, fast windstill. Im Rücken raucht und faucht uns Stromboli zum Abschied nach, vor uns warten die Schönheiten Panarea, Lipari und schliesslich Salina. Das Meer bleibt spiegelglatt aber bleifarben.

Wir freuen uns über die Duschen im Hafen von Santa Marina di Salina und auf das Restaurant ‚nni lausta. Der Name des Lokals ist der Spitzname des Chefs, Fabio und bedeutet im lokalen Dialekt, Arragosta, also Hummer. Wieso, bleibt ein Rätsel.

Das Degustationsmenu, dass wir hier geniessen ist eine kleine Reise durch die sizilianische Küche in 5 Gängen. Der geräucherte Thunfischtartar ist gut gewürzt, harmonisch und passt perfekt zur knusprig und frisch frittierten gefüllten Zucchiniblüte. Die Pasta mit Eier vom Schwertfisch ist schmackhaft, leicht salzig und natürlich wunderbar al dente. Die Linguine mit einem Fenchel Pesto sind ein Traum. Sie schmecken angenehm nach dem wilden Fenchel den man hier auf den Inseln immer wieder antrifft, nach dem satten Geschmack von Olivenöl und würzigem Pecorino.

Anschliessend erhalten wir eine Variante der sizilianischen Caponata, eine Art im Ofen geröstetes Ratatouille aus Aubergine, Peperoni, manchmal Zucchini und Tomaten. Dazu erhalten wir die in Sizilien so typischen Schwertfischröllchen, aussen knusprig und milde im Geschmack. Wir geniessen, schwelgen und als das Dessert kommt, platzen wir beinahe. 

Doch die Cannoli mit dickem süssen Schafskäsericotta, Kakaonibs und Mandarinen Konfitüre kann man nicht stehen lassen. Genauso wenig wie die geräucherte Schokoladen-Mousse oder den seidigen Zitronenflan. Sehr satt und sehr glücklich verabschieden wir uns von diesem schönen Ort unter den Zitronenbäumen.

Am nächsten Tag starten wir den Tag mit einer dicken schönen Brioche in der Vela Bar und einem aromatischen Kaffee. Dann umrunden wir mit gutem Wind im Rücken, Salina, die aus zwei etwa gleichgrossen erloschenen Vulkanen besteht. Kurz vor Santa Marina di Salina, ankern wir in Lingua und essen (schon wieder) uns beim berühmten Alfredo durchs Angebot. Die Pan Cunzatu, eine Art belegte Brote, sind üppig mit den auf den Inseln angebauten Kapern, frischen Tomaten, Mozzarella und Sardellen belegt. Die Granita, für die Alfredo so berühmt ist, sind  erkennbar aus frischen Früchten hergestellt. Und weil sie so schön aussehen und uns anlachen, essen wir gleich noch eine Brioche dazu. Der Blick auf die umliegenden Inseln, die vorbeituckernden Fischer und das Abendrot runden das Bild ab.

So richtig Hunger hat niemand mehr als wir in der Marina ankommen, wir beenden den Tag mit sizilianischem Wein und einem Käseplättchen.

Der nächste Tag bringt uns nach Vulcano, dem zweiten noch aktiven Vulkan des Archipels. Berühmt durch seine Schlammbäder und der relativen Nähe zu Sizilien, ist die Insel tagsüber sehr gut besucht. Wir kommen gegen späten Nachmittag an, einige unserer Crew nutzen die Zeit und steigen auf den Vulkan. Andere werfen sich ins Schlammbad. Der starke Schwelfelgeruch hängt wie ein leichter Dunst über der Insel und die unglücklichen die sich ein Bad gegönnt haben sind noch fast zwei Tag mit der Nase daran erkennbar. Sie müssen sich den gutmütigen Spott der restlichen Crew gefallen lassen. Diejenigen die nicht nachmittags auf den Vulkan gestiegen sind, holen das am nächsten Morgen noch in der Dämmerung nach. 

Schon während dem Aufstieg bietet sich eine gewaltige Aussicht auf den Porto Levante und die sechs umliegenden Inseln. Lipari, Panarea, Stromboli, Salina und weiter weg, im Morgendunst knapp erkennbar: Alicudi und Filicudi. Der Krater selber kann man zu Fuss umrunden, wobei man immer wieder über schwefelgelbe Stellen und heiss rauchende Löcher steigen muss. 

Wer will, steigt in den Krater hinunter, über die spitzen Steine führen mehrere Fusswege. Der Blick aus dem Krater durch die Schwefelschwaden in den Morgenhimmel ist unwirklich kitschig und schön.

Nach dem Abstieg besorgen wir die obligaten Brioches und Cornetti. Wir schlürfen schnell einen Cappuccino und beglücken unsere Crew mit den frischen Backwaren.

Der letzte Schlag führt zurück in den Heimathafen. Wir sind fast 8 Stunden unterwegs, nochmals an den lokalen Inselschönheiten vorbei, bevor wir in Tropea einfahren. Wieder glänzt das Meer in karibischem Blau. Unser letzter Ankerdrink, ein Rosé aus Sizilien, bildet einen schönen Kontrast in tiefem satten Rosa und passt geschmacklich hervorragend zu den letzten Kapern, Oliven und Schafskäsestücken die wir aufschneiden. Zum Znacht steigen wir die fast 200 Treppenstufen in die schöne Altstadt von Tropea. Wir haben einen Tisch im Vecchio Forno gebucht. Sie erwarten uns und stellen gleich noch eine weitere Tafel in die enge Gasse. Das Licht schwindet, die alte grelle Lampe beginnt zu glühen. Vespas fahren vorbei, es riecht nach gedünsteten Knoblauch, Abgasen und dem Geruch der  trocknenden Wäsche. Wir geniessen verschiedene Antipasti, die im Ofen geröstete Auberginen, Zucchini, den Tomatensalat mit Rucola, die Mozzarella di Bufala, nur mit wenig Olivenöl beträufelt. Wir sind schon wieder hungrig und geniessen das ausgezeichnete Pizzabrot dazu! Und freuen uns bereits wieder auf nächstes Jahr...

Beach first ;) this endless wild and rough beach is one of the most beautiful in the South. Regardless of wether its summer, autumn, rainy or sunny, watching the clouds chasing over the endless sky is a wonderful experience. Even in summer its hardly ever crowded, if you walk a few meters. Must see, in this region.

The next city, Le Grau du roi, has a wonderful food market and an impressive aquarium.

Parc ornithologique du Pont de Gau

https://www.parcornithologique.com

Even if you don't like Birds, give it a go. You can choose between different walks, up to 2 hours. i've chosen the shortest version due to a bunch of very euphoric mosquitos (bring repellent) and temperature close to my sauna. BUT the elegant flamingos ignoring you while fishing, flirting or just looking pretty are invaluable.